Chichén
Itzá Ruins
Yucatán,
México
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"Rollin', Rollin', Rollin', Keep those
buses rollin'.... " If the place weren't so damned important, I just might
avoid it altogether. It's those buses - all those tourists from Cancún -
the place gets really crowded. That's why, to truly see Chichén
Itzá, you must spend at least a night there. Get in early, leave for a
long leisurely lunch when the buses arrive, and go back in around three in the
afternoon until closing time. It'll take a day and a half at least but it is
definitely worth it. The place is just magnificent.
In the world of the Maya, Chichén
Itzá stands out as "the" ceremonial center. Everywhere you walk within
the main group, a feeling of pomp and circumstance surrounds you. Unlike many
other sites, this ain't no place to be quiet. You clap your hands to hear the
echoes. Most people clap in the ballcourt but try it in front of the temple
steps. You might hear something unexpected.
Chichén Itzá was not ruled by a
single king, but rather, by a council. And the council ruled a city of warriors
with military precision. Festivals were more parade-like. You can almost see
it; you can almost hear it; you can definitely feel it. Blood and sacrifice
were the norm. The bones of the dead lie just below the surface. A little
farther down reside the Lords of Xibalba, the Lords of the Underworld.
Chichén Itzá was built to appease them.
At night, the Lords of Xibalba rise to
take their place in the heavens. The movements of the stars and planets
foretold the planting of crops and the assembling of troops for battle. From
the well-planned alignment of temple buildings, the elite tracked the night
skies as well as our best scientists can today. The Maya Calender is accurate
to within minutes over periods of several thousand years. Not too shabby for
people who didn't use the wheel.
But the mystery still remains today. Why did
these people abandon their great cities? They didn't vanish; they still live in
the areas around these cities. You can see agricultural practices that haven't
changed in three thousand years. Many still practice other traditions and
beliefs of their forefathers. Some even speak the evolved language of the
ancients. Oppressed for centuries by the Spanish, now the Maya can walk these
sacred grounds again.